Biking Bliss in the Fôret de Sevran

I have been an active biker for over a year.

By "active," I of course mean occassional, and only in near-perfect sunny conditions.

Such biking activity has rarely, however, extended outside of the city. Only once last year did I bike out of bounds, on a lovely trip near the Royaumont Abbey. Last Sunday I tried again - a rematch country ride to the Fôret de Sevran.

The morning started with a trip to the market. A loaf of bread, fixings for a green bean salad, some drippy Reine Claudes and a nice Brie de Meaux - we bought everything we needed for a little country picnic.

Setting out from the Parc de la Villette, we followed the Canal de l'Ourcq (the northern extension of the Canal Saint-Martin) in the direction of Meaux.

For the first five minutes, the view was post-industrial. The falling-down Grands Moulins de Pantin towered before us and we breezed past buildings with broken windows and graffiti.

Emerging from a massive SNCF repair complex, we found ourselves in the middle of a Bobigny block-party. Balloons, each one with a message attached, filled the air above our heads. I smiled at them memory of doing the same twenty years ago in Kansas.

Next up along our route we spied some rough necks letting off jet ski steam. All bike traffic stopped to watch them as they skidded across the stank and murky waters.

Thirty minutes into the ride, the view became more picturesque. Wooden fences replaced grafitti-covered walls and flowers bloomed from suburban patios.

Time flew and soon enough the view had become fully forested. The heat of the day was held at bay by the canopy of trees. Light filtered between the branches to cast a serene glow on all who were picnicking (or reading, sleeping, drinking, entangling in various states of undress...).

We found a shaded spot within the Fôret de Sevran. We dropped like sacks after the sixty-minute ride and spread ourselves out for a sigh. A nap in the grass followed a leisurely lunch and then we found the buvette and a revitalizing beer.

Our party turned back around 4pm to attend to some pétanque around the Bassin de la Villette. The return trip took just over an hour, with some delay from weary legs and the of number joyriding Vélib'ers.

This trip was part of my training for an upcoming cycling holiday. I have been persuaded to pedal through the countryside between the châteaux de la Loire. Considering the number of very good vineyards along the way, it is certain to be a fiasco.

Country roads take me home (or: to dinner)

It's good to have active friends.

Otherwise, it would have never occurred to me to hop a train and spend the day biking in the countryside.

Which is what we did, Saturday, my active friends and I.

After city-biking to Gare du Nord, we took the train to a little village 40 km north of Paris. Bikes are allowed on all regional TER trains during non-rush hours for no charge (more info here). On board, bikes can simply be laid to the side if there isn't a special train car for them.

Descending to the platform at Luzarches, we rode away in search of country roads and fresh air. What we got, instead, was incredibly humid air and highway riding. That's right: the active friends' guide to train/bike adventure had us peddling down the interstate for at least 1/3 of the way.

All was certainly not lost. The ride, most of the time, looked like this, and was punctuated by a well-deserved stop at the Royaumont Abbey. Founded in 1228 by King cum Saint Louis, the Abbey was occupied by Cisturcian monks until the Revolution when it was partially-destroyed and turned into a cotton mill. Today, it's a cultural center and a site for fancy wedding parties like this.

We stopped for beers at their pretty cafe and Bernhard gave us a history lesson about monks and architecture. A friend who is active and historically-inclined? Le Meg wins.

At the end of the ride, we stopped for dinner at Le Saint Come (26 rue Cygne) in Luzarches, and I indulged in an apéro of kir pèche before a menu of 1) Salade Auvergnate and 2) Steak Haché avec Bleu d'Auvergne. We also shared some cheese and a thin slice of apple tart.

Did I mention it was air conditioned? It's amazing how the appetite can return when one isn't sweating to death.

We returned home on the last train to Paris and I landed in bed just before midnight, ready for the best-ever sleep of the dead.

Summary:

1. Round-trip train ticket Paris-Luzarches: 7 euros
2. Entry to the Royaumont Abbey: 5 euros
3. Beer at the Abbey café: 2.50 euros
4. Dinner at Le Saint Come: 16.50 euros
5. Pole dance and karaoke performance by Andreia on the train ride home: priceless

In total, ten wonderful hours for 31 euros. Thanks Bernhard & Andreia!