Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Paris on the Cheap?

So the American economy seems to have blown up. Family and friends are writing to say that their Paris travel plans are on hold... indefinitely.

I'm not going to tell someone with a vanishing pension that a Paris visit is what they need. At the same time, I want to counter their impression that Paris is a total bank buster. I understand why Paris has a repution for being expensive:

First of all, it's true. Or rather, it's possible. For those who have it, Paris offers some of the most exciting ways to spend money in the world. And these outlets - palace hotels, three-star restaurants, exclusive shopping - get a lot of attention. The press flurry surrounding these places creates a false impression of their importance. But they are not the (only) face of Paris.

A second (and related) reason: information about cheap fun is harder to find. There are fewer publications willing to pay for such stories, and internet message boards are dominated by luxury animals on the prowl for "the best." Those in search of "inexpensive" are obliged to do a little independent research. And many people simply don't have the time.

One last reason: people often underestimate (in a way that would not be true in Shanghai) how very different Paris is. They arrive in the city and want to maintain the rhythm and routine of home while also taking in some new sights. But unwillingness to adapt comes with a price tag. Yes you can have a Diet Coke, but it will be €5 ("that's $7!") for four sips. Yes you can eat at 6pm in a restaurant that provides an English menu, but it will be over-priced and under-delicious.

So there are plenty of reasons why Paris has a reputation for being Super Expensive. But I'm making it a personal mission to correct that impression, or at least to offer an alternative picture. With the help of some local friends, I'm going to highlight in the coming weeks the cheap side of this city - free activities, inexpensive restaurants, handy tips, and a general philosophy for good visiting.

This is all about helping you to enjoy the city we love. Please leave your general topics and questions in the comments section, and our army of local smarty-pantses will empty its collective brain on your behalf.

Cheaply yours,
Meg

26 comments:

David said...

You're right, but still, I beg to disagree.
If it's true that Paris is expensive for tourists because all they know, and anywhere they go is usually over-expensive tourist traps and/or luxury places (sometimes, they're both at the same time); it's also true that it's crazy expensive to live in Paris because of crazy housing prices, and even the price of everyday things is too expensive.
All in all, even cheap stuff in Paris is more expensive than cheap stuff out of Paris.

In other words: foreigners often think Paris is expensive for the wrong reasons, but that doesn't make it any less expensive.

cjw666 said...

Hmm. Well, yes ... of course Paris is expensive - even on the cheap (if you see what I mean), but then so is any large city. It's all down to location, location, location, I think. T shirt at a local market or small shop, perhaps 5€. Same thing with a designer label in Cannes - 150€. C'est la vie.

Superb blog by the way - I will definitly link!

bijou said...

Hi Meg:

I couldnt agree with you more and have been trying to get this word out for years too.

1. Everything is relative - it depends on your current lifestyle and needs/wants as to whether or not you will find it cheap/expensive.

2. Managing expectations (i.e. telling people that ordering a coke at a cafe in the Place du Tertre versus buying a six pack at an epicerie, storing it in your hotel and having it before you go out (if you really need it) will lower the costs. I agree with you fully that when in Rome, do as the Romans - while cokes are EUR5 - glasses of wine, fresh baguettes, cheese, pates - these can all be found at MUCH lower prices - so enjoy the local specialites while here; leave your home country, well at home.

3. Given the luxury of time (i.e. living there) allows you to go beyong the obvious and therefore find the tricks and cheaper options. I feel the same about NYC - people think its expensive and it is if you stay in Times Square and eat in Times Square - no newyorker ever does this.

Looking forward to hearing about your pieces of advice! I'd start with the velib and buying wine/cheese at an epicerie and then having a picnic near a monument (Tour Eiffel, Ponts de Arts, Ile de la Cite...)!

LOVE your blog! You have a rare talent for telling stories. Bravissimo.

Anonymous said...

Could you, this sounds so typical I know, but for people with a short time in the city, could you mention something about the Louvre area, like a decent not expensive hotel, restaurants, activities,etc. that are in walking distance to the Louvre.

Le Meg said...

Of course! Specific questions are very welcome. When is your trip?

Sarah said...

Hi! I've been reading your blog for ages, and this post couldn't have come at a better time for me -- I'm coming to Paris for the first time next Friday (happy 5th anniversary to me!). We are planning (hoping) to live fairly cheaply while there, and I'd love any suggestions for cheap eats or other things to do.

As a former New Yorker, I can totally relate to this concept. New York can be a very expensive city, but except for rent, it an also be as cheap as any other city if you know where to look.

Le Meg said...

Hi Sarah,
Happy anniversary! The blogger hordes are preparing their ideas for a first post response next Monday, which may be too late for your trip. But if you send me your email address (mine is in my profile) and narrow down a few preferences, I'm happy to share some thoughts that way.

Sarah said...

No, that timing is perfect. I leave on the 10th, so I can get last minute tips all next week. Again, thanks for putting this out there right when I am looking for suggestions!

Le Meg said...

Perfect. Next Monday it is!

Anonymous said...

This is so exciting for me! I'm a student in Paris for the semester, and after a month I'm finding it a lot more difficult to find the cheap side of Paris. Can't wait to see your suggestions!

Starman said...

A few things I've found as a frequent visitor: rent an apartment (it will cost less than even a cheap hotel and it will let you feel like you really 'live' in the city) they're easy to find on the internet - get your euros from an ATM for the best exchange rate - eat at local bistrots and restaurants - if you're going to be there for at least two weeks, buy a monthly métro pass (if you use the métro four or five times a day, and most do, it will pay for itself) - the lease expensive places to buy T-shirts is at the Pompidou Centre (corner of rue Saint-Merri and rue du Renard - 4 for €15) and the tourist shops next to Notre Dame. Hope this is helpful.

Winnie said...

Love this idea Meg! Also, the comment above about cheap bread, wine etc. is a good one. One of the best sides of Paris is a long summer (hey, maybe even fall!!) nights sitting along the Seine with a picnic dinner. It's cheap, you get the best view in Paris and you might have a little tango music from the nearby dancers to serenade you. The parks in Paris are also worthy of long picnic meals with friends on weekends. Can't wait to see what your tips are! Cheers!

Peggy said...

Brillant idea - I have lived and worked in Paris. Contrary to what people think, there are some cheap
finds - for example, during this past winter, on the first Sunday of the month, free museums - I went to Versailles and the Musee D'orsay free! I am sure you have much more to offer and I can't wait to hear all about them!

bijou said...

Few more:

METRO:
I agree with the monthly metro pass but also if you will use more than 10 billets (5 aller-retours) it is best to get an hebdomadaire pass (weekly) it starts on Sunday and gives you unlimited use. The one caveat is that you need a photo to attach to the card but I've been told that even a photocopy will do (especially if you can explain that you are a short term visitor).

The museums are free the first sunday of every month - all year long. If you can plan to visit Paris during this - I suggest taking advantage of this! The Louvre and Orsay are across the street from one another and could easily both be done in the same day.

The Musee Rodin has gardens (with sculptures) at 1 or 2 euros entrance - you can still see Rodin's sculptures (the thinker and the burghers of calais are both outside) and not pay the entrance fee.

Will think of some more. Excited to see what the experts weigh in with.

A Brilliant Life said...

My Favorite Paris on the cheap tips: (ignore the French misspellings)

1.) Replace restaurant lunch with a ham, cheese and egg crepe.

2.) Venture into the grocery stores, not only will you save money, but it will be astounding to discover the utter brilliance of the refrigerated and packaged dessert section. Crème caramel anyone?

3.) Go to the open air markets for fresh fruit, a boulangerie for a baguette, a fromagerie for a slab of cheese and Nicolas for some cheap wine (all of this can be accomplised on Rue de Mouffetard). Take it by the Seine, make it a picnic, enjoy yourself...you're in Paris.

4.) Go to the top of the Centre du Monde Arab and enjoy the totally FREE view of the city. Grab a coffee from a machine on the way up.

5.) If you do the 5 euro coffee and have a prime seat in a beautiful cafe...make it last two or three hours.

Marie Greene said...

I'm looking forward to reading your ideas! I'm flying to Paris at the end of the month in spite of the economy (to hell with it, I say).

bijou said...

You can (or used to be able to) go up the escalator to the top of Centre Pompidou (Beaubourg for you locals)to see the views without paying anything. Now that Cafe Georges has implanted itself up there - I dont know if this is still allowed. I think it is.

I still hope that the top of the Samaritaine re opens one day as this was, in my opinion, the best kept secret in Paris - you could sit in lounge chairs and only buy a drink and stay for as long as you want - the views are incomparable.

The BUS #27 - is a cheap Paris by bus sightseeing tour (no commentary though...) - it passes by most of the monuments - Louvre, Opera...- and will only cost you the price of a bus ticket.

bijou said...

Few others (sorry next time I'll consolidate...)

1. TRANSPORT

If you dont want to take all your luggage on the RER or risk your life with a parisien taxi driver - what is cheaper than the taxi (60EUR) from airport is the AIRFRANCE bus. Usually 15 EUR - and if you are lucky they have a quick film on Paris. They drop off at Arc de Triomphe, Opera, and Montparnasse. Look for the signs or ask at aiport. You can take this back to the airport too.


2. TASTINGS!!

A. The mother of all MAILLE stores, outside of Dijon, is at Place de la Madeleine. You can try for free all sorts of mustards... rose flavored, really strong...etc. Go in and not only marvel at all the flavors but try a few on pretzels.

B. I dont know how to know when they offer these but the Grande Epicerie (metro - Sevres Babylone)has a gorgeous wine section that has wine tastings often... go in, try a few and admire all the riches vielles dames dressed to the nines a few sheets to the wind.

I'll be in Paris too (next week!

Anonymous said...

I have always relied on the book from the series "Let's Go ___" as in "Let's Go Paris." It's updated annually by college students [read: looking for cheap everything]. Americans make the mistake of thinking they need to stay in 3 or 4-star hotels. ONE star is usually just fine, if all you need to do is collapse after a long day of taking it all in.

Anonymous said...

I'd like to go in spring next year, maybe April. I'm interested in more day time activities or low-key night time, (like cycling around) no really late night activities or clubs. More of an art visit, and to see architecture, historical things.

Soumya said...

Hi All,

Nice topic, and extremely relevant for me. I am planning to visit Paris in the middle of December, this year. I will be staying for 4 days. Can anybody please advise me on a place to stay? Any hostel which charges less than 20 euros per night? Since Paris has such a nice Metro service, I guess I need not stay in the middle of the city, although staying close to the Eiffel Tower will be pretty cool. I am eagerly waiting for your suggestions.

Anonymous said...

I'll be arriving in Paris October 10th for 4 days. Real excited. I'm real glad to have found this blog. I found a studio in Paris for 30 euro through craigslist. Ilike street photography and plan to spend my time doing that. Any suggestions. I try to stay away from heavily frequented tourist places..would like to take pics of typical parisians in everyday life and some street scenes from the more classical parisian streets/venues. Here's some links to my photos. it'll give some idea of the type of photo ops I'm looking for. Thank you for any help and thanks for this blog.

a.d.f.

http://www.pbase.com/aldodefilippi

http://photo.net/photodb/member-photos?photo_id=474979

Sarah said...

One other thing -- my actually anniversary is 10/18, and we'd like to do something nicer that night. Not necessarily very expensive, but a memorable meal at least. Any suggestions?

bijou said...

Sarah - what memory do you want; location, view, ambiance, food, walk to/from the restaurant? I have a list of my favorites but they all have a special reason for going there and a certain memory tha lingers after...

Paris is an easy city to eat well and pay a lot.

Le Meg said...
This post has been removed by the author.
Le Meg said...

A quick answer for Souma: Check out the new St. Christopher's Inn It's nowhere near the Eiffel Tower, but is right on the Bassin de la Villette and has nice rooms and a very good scene for €30. Read more here: